Potatoes, Rocks, and Knuckleheads

Day 15: 6/16/24
From: Boise, ID
To: Grand Teton National Park, WY (Colter Bay Campground) by way of Craters of the Moon National Monument, ID
Distance: 403 miles

Up at 7. Maybe the first time an alarm has actually woken us up. Showers, breakfast, and off we go, leaving exciting Boise behind us. Did breakfast include Idaho potatoes? Yes, of course it did. (They were really good, actually.)

Happy Father’s Day! I take the first 2 1/2 hour drive to Craters of the Moon National Monument. The drive is easy. (No wide loads hauling houses or sheds this time.) and within an hour, we come across an M1A1, the tank Husband used to be a gunner on back in the mid-nineties. We stop so he can touch the tank and reminisce. Then onward once more.

Craters of the Moon certainly announces its presence dramatically, black lava rock spilling onto the grasslands seemingly out of nowhere. We decide to hike the lava tube caves, but before we can do so, the park rangers have to ask questions. Have we been in caves before? (Yes) Are we wearing anything we might have worn in those caves? (Not likely) 

They need to make sure a certain type of fungus doesn’t spread to the bats in their cave system, and mold spores can stay on clothing for years even through the wash.

With that, we head through the park, admiring the lava rock spread out for miles. Then a 1.5 mile walk across the paved trails through the rock and into the caves created by lava. I use two walking sticks to make sure I don’t twist an ankle, a hip, a knee, or whatever else might come out of joint. And everyone is careful about making sure I don’t misstep. I know they mean well, but I feel about 900 years old right now. Just put me in a backpack and call me Yoda.

A quick lunch and a stop for gas and then we’re bound for Grand Teton National Park 4 hours away. Along the way, we pass several mounds that look like they could have once been volcanic, but haven’t been in a very long time. We also pass signs for the free Atomic Museum and for a Radioactive Waste Management Complex. We’ll take a hard pass on those and keep going.

The scenery changes into beautiful picturesque mountains as we pass Palisade Reservoir. Someone once told me not to travel through southern Idaho because it’s terribly boring and all desert, but this trip has been anything but boring. And anyone who thinks this is boring desert hasn’t traveled New Mexico, Utah, and Arizona desert…

We cross into Wyoming and head for Jackson, where we can stop at Target and pick up the extra blankets I ordered yesterday. One more hour to go! But it’s much less than an hour when we see our first view of the Grand Tetons. They are stunning through and through, especially with the setting sun highlighting their peaks. Opposite the mountains, on the other side of the highway is a herd of bison to welcome us.

Shortly after we arrive at the campground, there’s an enormous backup of cars and people on the side of the road. Nate and I know exactly what this means. There’s likely a bear somewhere in the meadow.

And we’re right.

The bear is a good 500 yards or more away and hardly visible in the high meadow grass. We *think* it’s a black bear, but it’s so far away, it’s hard to tell.

We set up camp quickly when we arrive at our site and do our best to avoid mosquitoes. They are plentiful here. Ugh. Husband starts a fire and we douse ourselves in a light covering of DEET to keep them away. We’ll see. At least two in our party are prone to bites. But the repellant works and we don’t get a single bite!

Dinner consists of dehydrated camp meals around the fire. Then it’s an early bed as the temp drops and we climb beneath the (many, new) blankets for warmth. Only it’s not an early bed because at 8:30, a couple of college kids show up to the site across from ours, shout curses at each other, blare their music, sing (badly), drink, and dance on top of their car and the picnic table. Quiet hours begin at 10, which means everyone in this campground has to listen to this nonsense for at least an hour and a half before we can call a ranger. Remember a few days ago when we were discussing how awesome other campers are? These two are the exception.

I am appalled by the behavior. They could behave this way in their basement back home. Why come to a national park? Why come into nature to blare music, get high, and sing and dance like a couple of knuckleheads? At 9:30, someone finally yells “Give it a rest!” which is much nicer than I would have been had I the gall to speak up. But this hasn’t stopped them at all. Families and campers all through the park are having a miserable experience because these two just keep howling tunelessly into the darkness and everything is “f-ing this” or “f-ing that.”

They continue until exactly 10 pm, which means they know exactly what they’re doing. They came with every intention of intruding on the very solitude and the connection with nature that people come here for. They were here to be awful for an hour and a half before quiet hours started so everyone around them had to hear their “epic jam sesh.” That’s really what they called it (loudly). For the record, their vocals sucked and their air guitar needs a tuning. I hope a bear smells beer on their breath tonight and decides to visit.


P.S. I’ve been slaughtered on Threads for my stodgy old-lady attitude towards these fun-loving kids who were clearly *just* having “safe, harmless fun” in a national park. I “must never have camped in my life if I think this is abnormal behavior.”

At this point, I’m just letting the comments and clicks accumulate. <Gives a bow> Thanks for your help with the social media algorithm. I’m guessing most of these folks have never been in a national park and don’t know anything about camp etiquette. There’s certainly a time and a place for partying and having loud fun. I stand by my statement that a national park isn’t it.

Oregon – the Land of Many Climates

Day 14: 6/15/24
From: Crater Lake, OR
To: Boise, ID
Distance: 418 miles (+ some)

Um, it’s snowing. In mid-June. We’re out the door by 8 am and the cloud cover above us is thick. But snow? I guess it *is* 32 degrees, so it’s not unprecedented. But also not exactly expected either. We’re east-coasters. June means warmth.

After a small snafu where we leave the park in the wrong direction thanks to zero reception, we head north through the Umpqua National Forest and Fremont-Winema National Forest where we continue to be snowed on for the next hour. This is surreal. When we have reception again, the Maps app turns us around again and we’ve basically taken a very roundabout way to get out of the park, but we didn’t add any time to today’s drive. Thankfully. 7 hours is 7 hours.

One thing I notice about Oregon is the purple wildflowers along the roadside. Some are close to the ground, and some grow a foot high or more. But purple seems to be the color here. As opposed to the white, pink, and red flower bushes (roses?) growing along California roads.

The surroundings quickly change as we drive back into the desert — still Oregon, but no longer woodsy and pine-filled. Sun, scrub brush, and dry hills. But it’s not hot here! It may look a bit like Arizona, but it’s definitely not. Still only 54 degrees at 11 am.

In this strange terrain we see two antelope — the first of the trip! And they dart when they see us, leaping across the desert scrub, their fluffy white butts to us.

After some time, Husband grows bored of this drive and begins to make up his own song. 

“There’s nothing out here
Nothing at all
I can’t even
Make a call

I’m just driving
In my car
I can see
So damn far”

I take over driving for the last two hours or so and we get stuck behind an enormous line of traffic for miles upon miles because of an oversized load that refuses to pull off the highway to let the mile backup pass him… Does Oregon not believe in 4-lane highways? What’s with all the secondary highways? I guess not enough people live here to make it worth it? Still, it was maddening to drive 35-45 miles an hour in a 65 mph zone for a good 15-20 minutes. 

We arrive at our hotel in Boise at 5 pm, sad because we’re officially back on Mountain Time and out of Pacific, officially on our return trip. Husband and Older Child go out for dinner while Younger Child and I stay in and catch a nap. I tweaked something in my neck today (yay), so I’m trying to give it a little bit of a rest. And a rest usually ends up meaning sleep, so… Husband comes back at 9:30 with dinner for me and Younger Child — the problem with going for dinner late on a Saturday evening is anything brought back will be brought back even later.

I  check the weather forecast for the next few days and am a bit gutted to find it’s going to be very, very cold at night for the next few nights. And we’re in a tent. So while most of my friends back home are headed into a dangerous heat wave, I hope they all think of us, shivering in our tent over the next few days.

Do I place an order for blankets at a Target in Jackson, Wyoming so we can pick them up tomorrow on our way to our next campground? Yes, I do. Because modern problems call for modern solutions and the internet is our friend.

More than Just Potatoes

Original Post: September 8, 2015

There came a point in our trip when we knew it would be time to turn around and head back home.  Crater Lake didn’t really count (even though we’d changed directions), as it was still an amazing destination that I’d planned as part of the itinerary.

Idaho, however, was…well…

Idaho.

Before leaving for the trip, I’d asked a few friends who lived out west whether it was better to travel northern Idaho or southern.  We needed to get to Yellowstone and I wanted to do it as quickly as possible, but what’s a few extra hours on the road if the scenery is nice, right?  So we added an extra hour and a half and took the northern route as recommended.  Why?  Because it was pretty. 

Or so I was told.

As I’m really not being very fair to Idaho, I should probably clarify.  Northern Idaho is beautiful.  (I’d been told the southern route was all desert, and we’d really seen quite enough of that.)  Eastern Oregon and Washington, however, are not.  Having seen the west coast of Oregon on a past trip, I pictured all of Oregon to be full of the amazingly green, incredibly dark piney forests that make western Oregon such a draw to nature lovers and neohippies everywhere. 

In fact, I couldn’t have been more wrong.  After the mountains faded into the distance, eastern Oregon looks the way I expected Kansas to look. (For the record, I was wrong there, too.  Kansas is not grain.  Kansas is corn.  Oregon is grain.  Lots of it.)  And eastern Washington is very much the same.

Okay, so this part was pretty amazing.  Mountains, horses, and beautiful blue skies, and miles and miles of road to travel.

But this part?

On film, stunning.  In reality, breathtaking.  

For an hour or so.  

Hours upon hours?  Not so much.

Oh, come on. You knew we had to stop.

By the time we reached our cabin in Coeur d’Alene, I was very much contemplating the wisdom of my decision to travel northern Idaho, but Coeur d’Alene itself, particularly the lake, is beautiful.  Our first stop in Idaho, naturally, was this –>

You can take the boy out of Cabela’s (in Hamburg), but you can’t take Cabela’s out of the boy…hence why we ended up in Cabela’s (in Coeur d’Alene).

A few dehydrated meals later, we were back on our way and reached the Osprey Perch Cabin at the Wolf Lodge Campground within a half hour.  Nestled against the back of a mountain, it was a positively charming little A-frame…even if it did slant uphill and made me feel as though I was a little tipsy.  Seriously, It’s odd the way a slight incline outdoors does nothing to your equilibrium, but the same slant inside is downright disturbing. Still, it didn’t detract from the charm.

We finally had a slow evening to ourselves, so we headed to Lake Coeur d’Alene for Nate to try his hand at fishing.  I sat with camera at the ready, hoping to capture a bald eagle or two in the area, but to no avail.  However, I did manage to capture a spectacular sunset!

Lake Coeur D’Alene

Back at the cabin, we ate another dehydrated meal, shared a couple of mugs of hot tea and enjoyed the stars as they begin to dot the sky.  At least until the mosquitoes showed up.  Then it was inside and time for fun on the computer.  We actually had a few hours to load photos and view them.  Throughout the trip, I would try to download photos to my laptop every few days, but now I finally had time to look at them.  (Imagine that!)

In the end, I was glad we took the northern Idaho route instead of southern, but those 9 hours in eastern Oregon and Washington was quite the test.  A test of patience, a test of willpower, or a test of sanity – I’m not sure.  But it was a test.

But I did discover that there was more to Idaho than just potatoes.

Come to think of it, I didn’t see a single potato.  Maybe I should write the Idaho bureau of tourism.

No eagles, but plenty of osprey.